Strong for his age, tanned and weathered, Diego. A man with four rental cabins on a bluff, their balconies pointed to the infinite expanse of the cold Pacific ocean. The man who put a surfboard in my hand and reshaped my life.
I have a longboard, yes. You want to try surfing?
I don’t know. Should I?
Yeah man, you try! Take it out, you go.
I like Diego because he’s content with his life. He smokes pot from breakfast to dinner, surfs five days a week and in the afternoon he sits in the front chair and contemplates the ocean. He’s got two dogs and no wife, on our drives to town he tells me about his life.
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